American

For historic continuity, ferociously loyal community support, and an atmosphere that you could spread with a knife, you can't beat the hamburger joint Louis' Lunch, in New Haven, Connecticut. Since 1898, the Lassen family has been grinding its own beef daily, hand shaping patties to order, and grilling burgers on antique cast-iron broilers in front of live flames. (This answers the question once and for all — the proper way to cook a hamburger is by grilling, not by frying it on a griddle.) And as any regional American culinary landmark should be, Louis' Lunch is sufficiently quirky to allow melted processed cheese but militantly prohibit ketchup and mustard as accompaniments to its signature burgers. Here, then, is the next best thing to elbowing your way up to the counter at Louis'.

Food Editor: Ian Knauer
Father: Robert M. Knauer, Allentown, PA
As a mother of seven, my grandmother was always in the kitchen and often made these bell-shaped cookies. Now, when I make them for my father from her handwritten recipe, he says the taste takes him back to his childhood.

These thin cornmeal fritters go nicely with the flounder in jalapeño cream. They are made from the same type of batter as hush puppies, but not deep-fried.

Associate Food Editor: Alexis Touchet
Father: Rodney Miller, Abbeville, LA
When I was a kid, our summer routine started with the opening day of shrimp season — my dad would get the boat ready and out we would go, winding our way down the bayou until we reached Vermilion Bay. He would check to make sure the trawl net was securely tied before tossing it into the water, and would then let it be dragged down slowly along with the trawl boards. When we painstakingly pulled the net up onto the boat and untied the bag, it spilled out a catch of shrimp, crabs, and fish. These fresh shrimp were the stars in Dad's favorite gumbo recipe.

This hot chicken casserole is perfectly seasoned. Lots of celery and almonds give it a nice crunch. You may be inclined to leave off the potato-chip topping, but believe me, it won't be the same without it!

Butter Mochi This chewy snack cake gets its distinctive gelatinous texture from mochiko, a sweet rice flour that's commonly used in Hawaii. Coconut milk and butter add rich, creamy flavor.

Just in time for Derby Day, this dessert has fewer calories than a mint julep (and you can drive home afterward).

Serve this sauce over baked, broiled, or sautéed white-fleshed fish.

The red portions of rhubarb stalks make the best-looking pie, so buy extra and trim as needed.

Orzo with lemon zest and Italian parsley would be lovely alongside. What to drink: Viognier or French Chardonnay.

All that these steaks need is about 30 minutes in a very hot oven: no browning, no sauce, no fuss. Improv: Try the same seasonings on two whole chickens, a pork roast, or three racks of lamb.

Roasting the meat uncovered during the last hour allows the sauce to reduce. Serve with the Cauliflower-Leek Kugel with Almond-Herb Crust and steamed asparagus. The brisket can be made two days ahead.

Ask your butcher to butterfly the chicken breasts. What to drink: Unoaked Chardonnay.

Dana Talusani of Longmont, Colorado, writes: "As the mother of two, I don't get to spend as much time in the kitchen as I would like. That said, it's still important for our family to sit down and enjoy a meal together at the end of the day. This is one of my favorite recipes — it's great for a last-minute dinner." The classic combination of blue cheese and steak is updated with a kick of jalapeño chiles.

Joe Dion of North Charleston, South Carolina, writes: "Because I work in a restaurant (I'm a chef at a place called Slightly North of Broad in Charleston), I don't let my cooking at home get too complicated. I'm at the restaurant five days a week and often work on weekends, but whenever I have the chance I enjoy getting together with friends and cooking for them." Fresh raspberries flavor the dressing and give this light salad its sweet tang; the pine nuts add crunch.