Southern

Two New Orleans favorites — catfish and pecans — team up in this terrific dish from Upperline Restaurant.

(Gumbo with Mixed Greens and Red Beans) Louisiana's "gumbo z'herbes", from the French gumbo aux herbes, was developed in Roman Catholic communities as a meatless dish for Lent. Traditionally, the number of guests determines how many types of greens go into the pot, but, if you wish to use only a few greens, just increase their amounts to equal the total quantity called for. Red beans are added to make this gumbo a more complete vegetarian main course.

Oysters Rockefeller were created in 1899 by Jules Alciatore of Antoine's in New Orleans to make use of local shellfish and greens. Named for John D. Rockefeller, this classic course is likewise quite rich.

This recipe was created to accompany Cajun Shrimp Tacos with Tomatillo Salsa. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A seafood spread such as this one—especially when paired with crisp benne-seed (sesame-seed) wafers—has long been a popular cocktail nibble in South Carolina's Low Country.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Chef Tory McPhail writes: "I was 19 years old and just out of culinary school when I first started at Commander's Palace. Despite my training, nothing prepared me for the pressures of working in a fast-paced kitchen, or in a restaurant of such high quality. I think my success came down to sheer effort and a lifelong passion for cooking. Even as a kid I loved playing with cookie and pie dough. "After a seven-year absence, which I spent working abroad and opening a new Commander's Palace restaurant in Las Vegas, I came back to New Orleans last year. Since returning I've enjoyed cooking for my friends. On the weekends we'll go fishing, and then I'll grill our catch and serve it along with a fresh salad. That meal combines the two best things about living in the South — lots of fishing and great fresh produce."

I know what you're thinking: Another crabcake. Well, all crabcakes are not alike. When this dish goes on Commander's menu, more than half our patrons will order it. They probably feel as my mother does: "True jumbo lump crabmeat is the caviar of Louisiana." We want to highlight the crabmeat, not mask it with heavy binders or frying, so this has no bread crumbs and only a small amount of binder. And the cakes are _not_fried, making them incredibly light. As for the accompaniment, crab and corn are a classic Creole combination.

Barbecue sauces flavored with soft drinks are a long-standing tradition in the South.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr When Craig Claiborne accepted an invitation to a hunt breakfast in Virginia, he didn't understand that riding a horse would be part of the deal. He found the experience hair-raising but furnished us with a delightful account of that weekend — along with this fluffy rendition of the South's beloved grits. It makes a good side dish to almost any meat — especially ham, of course.

The cornmeal biscuit topping adds some crunch to the winning combination of fresh strawberries and rhubarb.

There has been much debate over the strange name of this rice and bean combination. One theory suggests that "Hoppin' John" is a corruption of pois à pigeon, French for pigeon peas, with which the dish was originally made in the French colonies of the Caribbean, where it was likely created.

Cajun seasoning spikes this soup with heat, so adjust according to your taste. Serve with: Jalapeño corn bread and carrot sticks. Dessert: Cheesecake topped with thawed sliced frozen peaches.

"I've had some unforgettable meals during my travels," writes Chris Forney of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, "but I've never felt compelled to request a recipe from Bon Appétit until now. While in Charleston, South Carolina, recently, my wife and I ate at the Peninsula Grill. I can't stop thinking about the coconut cake I had for dessert there." This impressive-looking cake will delight coconut-lovers. The filling needs to chill overnight, so be sure to begin preparing this dessert a day ahead of time.

This rich, savory dish (pronounced shrimp mah-lih-tone) is pure Cajun comfort food. In Louisiana it's often served as a side dish; it also works as a first course.

Serve this flavorful dish with corn bread or crusty French bread.