Fish

Originally from Catalonia, a region in northern Spain that surrounds the city of Barcelona, this appetizer is now found all over the country. If not serving immediately, pass the toppings on the side so that the bread doesn't get soggy.

Although bay leaves in this recipe smell delicious and look enticing, they should not be eaten because of their sharp edges.

Wild striped bass is an incredible delicacy on the order of wild king salmon. To complement its robust flavor and steak-like texture, we serve it with a beautiful and aggressive squid vinaigrette. This is not a dish for people who are on the fence about eating fish.

The following recipe was inspired by pissaladière, the Niçoise tart that features a similar topping.

The salsa should be very fresh. You can prepare the ingredients ahead of time, just do not combine them more than 2 hours prior to serving. Also, never spoon the salsa atop the tuna until just before serving.

(Salt Cod Fritters)

Try serving this on toast points for an appetizer or a first course.

Active time: 2 hr Start to finish: 2 hr Traditionally sprinkled over veal, a classic Italian gremolata is made of lemon zest, parsley, and garlic. Chef Odessa Piper's take on it trades lemon and garlic for lemongrass and lime zest, giving the topping a lighter, more citrusy flavor that perfectly complements the mild trout.

Do not attempt this dish unless the fish is very fresh. Steaming is used only for fresh, delicately flavored fish.

Preserved lemons are a staple Moroccan condiment that can take up to 2 weeks to make in the traditional manner. Added to various foods, they impart a tangy brininess similar to that of olives but with the unique perfume of lemon. In most Moroccan dishes only the peel is used, the pulp being scraped away and discarded. However, the pulp is not wholly without value, making a delicious addition to Bloody Marys, and to salad dressings — wherever a salty-sour taste is welcome. The recipe below is an effort to approximate preserved lemons without having to plan a week or more in advance.

To make the nori rolls in this recipe we used a bamboo sushi mat, available at Asian markets and some specialty shops. It's possible to make the rolls using a double thickness of aluminum foil instead of a sushi mat, but using a mat makes the process much easier.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Serve this with crusty bread to soak up the delicious olive oil.

Salmon and cod also work well.

For the start or close of a millennium (or almost any other significant occasion), this is an opulent but fuss-free combination. Purchase the crabs from a busy fishmonger to ensure absolute freshness. Inexpensive caviar (which is often dyed) can turn the dipping sauce gray; invest a little more if you can. Champagne — not too dry — is naturally the beverage of choice.