Sour Cream

Start making this at least one day ahead.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

For decades, the restaurant Lutèce—with chef André Soltner behind the stove—was the pinnacle of French cuisine in New York City. Soltner's Alsace onion tart, one of the best we've ever tasted, was the inspiration for this version.

Tangy crème fraîche and a very grown-up rum-pineapple topping take cheesecake to an entirely new level. For best results, use Philadelphia-brand cream cheese.

Active time: 3 hr Start to finish: 4 hr

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

You can also make these with chicken, ham or roast pork.

Bake this dessert ahead so it can chill overnight.

(TARTE AU CITRON)

Kugels are baked puddings that come in many forms; Their base may be noodles, matzo, or bread or cake crumbs; most are sweet but some are savory; and they may be served warm or cold. Traditionally part of Jewish sabbath and holiday meals, slightly sweet noodle kugels are often served as a side dish. The following kugel would also work well as a dessert.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. This recipe calls for chipotle chiles, which are actually dried, smoked jalapeños. They can be bought packed in adobo, a sauce made from ground chiles, herbs, tomatoes, and vinegar. Serve the dip with bell pepper strips, chips, or crackers.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 45 min

In this luscious soup, the restaurant uses a squash that is relatively new to the American market: the kabocha, a beautiful jade-green winter squash with deep orange flesh. Chipotle chilies canned in a spicy tomato sauce, sometimes called adobo, are available at Latin American markets, specialty foods stores, and some supermarkets.

Be sure to make this dessert at least one day ahead to allow the flavors to blend.

Active time: 15 minutes Start to finish: 1 1/4 hour

This rich red nectar may be eaten hot or cold. I serve it in a demitasse or other small cup. Scrub the beets well before cooking. Taste as you prepare the soup, because getting the right balance of sweet and sour is important.