(Nieve de Aguacate)
Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are excerpted from Zarela Martinez's book The Food and Life of Oaxaca. Martinez also shared some helpful cooking tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page.
To read more about Martinez and Oaxacan cuisine, click here.
The idea of making ice cream from avocados is not strange or outlandish to Oaxacans. In many Latin American countries, avocados are eaten as dessert. (Brazilians make them into a sweet mousse.) Nieve de Aguacate is one of the perennial favorites at Oaxaca City ice-cream stands. It is naturally creamier than the usual fruit-based nieves; but some acid is necessary to offset the blandness of the avocado. Fresh lime juice is the perfect complement.
•"Oaxaca City is one of the world capitals of ices or 'snows,'" says Martinez. Countless flavors, including avocado, papaya, guava, and tamarind, are served in the plaza of La Soledad church. This basic recipe can be used as the basis for experimentation with many kinds of tropical fruit: Instead of the lime juice and avocados, use a thawed 14-ounce package of frozen fruit pulp (sold puréed or in chunks in Latin American and Asian stores). If using puréed fruit, you can omit the blending or food-processing step and simply mix the ingredients in a bowl before freezing. Adjust the amount of simple syrup according to the natural sweetness of the fruit.
•"The texture you should be trying to achieve is not that of a rich, silky ice cream, but rather something like a sherbet or ice milk," says Martinez. She recommends the Donvier brand ice cream maker from France for the excellent Oaxacan-style ices it produces, but this recipe works with any brand.
Recipe information
Yield
Makes about 1 quart
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Make the simple syrup: Combine the water and sugar in a small saucepan. Heat gently, stirring constantly, until the sugar is completely dissolved. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook until reduced to 1 cup. Let cool to room temperature. (Syrup can be made ahead and stored, refrigerated, in a tightly covered container.)
Step 2
In a blender or food processor, process the avocados and milk to a perfectly smooth texture. Add the syrup and lime juice, starting with a little less than all of each and adding more to taste.
Step 3
Freeze by manufacturer's directions for your ice-cream maker. Or to still-freeze, pour into a 1-quart container (preferably stainless steel), place in the freezer, and freeze for 2 hours. Remove and beat the mixture until it is a fine-textured slush, using a chilled rotary beater or hand-held electric mixer (with beaters chilled). The aim is to break up the ice crystals and aerate the mixture for a fluffier texture. Return to the freezer for 1 more hour; remove and beat in the same manner. Return to the freezer until ready to serve.
