With a colloquial name like chicken riggies (short for rigatoni), this regionally famous pasta dish is the epitome of “if you know, you know.” But in case you don’t: It’s as if a creamy tomato vodka sauce had a spunkier cousin, boosted by the zing of pickled hot cherry peppers.
It’s an Italian American hybrid dish with origins in the “Littler” Italys of central and upstate New York. In the early 20th century, small Rust Belt cities like Utica and Rome were home to a large wave of immigrants who created new-age renditions of familiar dishes such as chicken riggies, Utica greens, and tomato pie in their homes and restaurants.
Today the pasta is a comforting regional favorite for serving at everything from festivals to funerals in the upper stretch of New York State. The obsession is real: At the annual Riggies Run in Utica, runners are challenged to stop mid-race and scarf down a serving.
This recipe sticks with a blend of fresh mini sweet peppers and jarred hot cherry peppers (look for jars labeled “hot cherry peppers” from brands like Cento, Mezzetta, B&G, or Jeff’s Garden; if sliced are unavailable, use whole and slice them yourself), but feel free to take after some upstate New Yorkers and add sautéed mushrooms or olives to the mix.
Recipe information
Total Time
1 hour
Yield
4–6 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
If using chicken breasts, holding your knife parallel to a cutting board and working one at a time, slice lengthwise through 1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken breasts (2–3), starting on a long side, to make 4–6 evenly thick cutlets (they should be ⅓" thick or less). Generously season on both sides with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.
If using store-bought cutlets, generously season 1½ lb. chicken cutlets on both sides with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.
Step 2
Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large high-sided skillet over medium-high. Working in batches if needed, cook cutlets, turning halfway through, until golden brown and cooked through, 12–16 minutes. Transfer to a large plate.
Step 3
Cook 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil and 1 lb. mini sweet peppers, sliced into ½"-thick rings, in same skillet, stirring occasionally, until peppers are tender and blistered in spots, 5–7 minutes. (Add 1 Tbsp. water to deglaze bottom of pan if browned bits are beginning to burn.) Transfer sweet peppers to plate with chicken.
Step 4
Reduce heat to medium and cook 1 medium onion, finely chopped, and remaining 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, stirring often and adding water as needed to prevent burning, until onion is softened and starting to brown at the edges, 8–10 minutes. Add 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped, 1 cup drained sliced hot cherry peppers, and ¼ cup double-concentrated tomato paste; cook, stirring often, until paste begins to stick to bottom of pan and turns a deep maroon shade, 6–8 minutes. Add ¾ cup heavy cream and stir just to combine.
Step 5
Meanwhile, cook 12 oz. rigatoni or other tubular pasta in a large pot of boiling heavily salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, 1–2 minutes less than package instructions. Drain, reserving 2 cups pasta cooking liquid.
Step 6
Add pasta, ½ cup pasta cooking liquid 3 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about 1½ cups), and ¼ cup hot cherry pepper brine to sauce and cook, stirring and adding more pasta cooking liquid a little at a time as needed, until cheese is melted and a glossy sauce forms; season with salt and pepper.
Step 7
Slice reserved chicken on a slight diagonal into 2"-long strips and add to sauce along with reserved sweet peppers; stir to coat. Divide chicken riggies among shallow bowls and top with basil leaves if desired.
