I realized awhile ago that my kids don’t really care what meat goes into their meatballs. It’s more the idea of a meatball as a savory tender something alongside (but not touching!) their pasta that draws them in. So it actually caused less of a stir than anticipated when I informed them that I had put cheese, not meat, in their dinner.
The thing is, Halloumi isn’t like any other cheese. It is pungent, briny, and intense, with a bouncy density. It comes from Cyprus, a Mediterranean island, and has protected naming status, similar to Champagne. It has the kind of depth that makes it a knockout substitute for ground meat. Here, it gets shredded on a box grater and mixed with many of the usual meatball suspects—breadcrumbs, eggs, and spices. The issue with many meatless swaps is they want to fall apart, as they lack the binding ability of meat proteins to create firm structure once cooked. But Halloumi gets only slightly oozy when heated, and immediately firms up so these no-meat balls stay intact as they swim in an aromatic tomato sauce and are served up to discerning eaters of any age.
Unlike many styles of cheese, like cheddar or feta, that have innumerable styles and levels of quality, Halloumi’s controlled production and status means that pretty much any brand you find is likely to be fantastic. While you can certainly eat it right out of the package, its squeaky firm texture (and herbaceous and briny flavor) improves further once grilled or seared, allowing its natural sugars and proteins to caramelize.
Recipe information
Total Time
45 minutes
Yield
4 servings
Ingredients
No-Meat Balls
Sauce and Assembly
Preparation
No-Meat Balls
Step 1
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 400°. Mix 1 small onion, coarsely grated, 2 large eggs, lightly beaten to blend, ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, and ¼ cup water in a medium bowl to combine, then mix in 1½ cups panko and let sit 10 minutes to hydrate.
Step 2
Mix in one 8-oz. block Halloumi cheese, coarsely grated, 1 tsp. garlic powder, 1 tsp. smoked paprika, and ½ tsp. mild red pepper flakes or ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes; season with freshly ground black pepper. (You don’t need salt as the Halloumi tends to be very salty.) Working one at a time, scoop out 3-Tbsp. portions and gently roll between lightly oiled hands to form into balls (you should have about 12 total).
Step 3
Arrange no-meat balls on a large rimmed baking sheet, spacing evenly apart; drizzle each with a little oil. Bake until well browned underneath and lightly golden on top, 18–22 minutes. Let cool slightly.
Sauce and Assembly
Step 4
While the no-meat balls are baking, heat 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large saucepan or medium skillet over medium. Add two 3" cinnamon sticks and 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, and cook, stirring often, until garlic is golden around the edges, about 4 minutes.
Step 5
Add one 24-oz. bottle passata and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook, reducing heat as needed if sauce is spattering, until reduced by one third and flavors have come together, 20–25 minutes. (It’s important to cook out the raw flavor of the tomato first; you’ll adjust for consistency after.) Stir in ¼-cupfuls of water at a time until you can pour sauce off of a spoon in a smooth, steady stream. Combine meatballs and sauce in a large shallow bowl and top with cilantro leaves with tender stems. Serve with country-style bread or steamed rice alongside.
Do Ahead: No-meat balls and sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Store together or separately in airtight containers and chill.
Recipe notes
Back to topSee Related Recipes and Cooking Tips
All the Recipes From *Bon Appétit*’s February Issue
We’ve got make-ahead breakfasts, a happy fridge salad, and one-pan dinners.
