Once a breakfast staple for South Asia’s Muslim royalty and later hearty pre-work day sustenance of the working class, nihari is now an all-day affair in Pakistan, where this slow-cooked meat stew is heralded as the country’s national dish. Often made with beef or lamb shanks and marrow bones, it’s easy to substitute cuts like beef stew meat, oxtail, short ribs, or brisket. At its core, nihari is not that different in concept from its global counterparts goulash, pot au feu, or birria—a lazy, hearty, and heartwarming stew.
When I was growing up, nihari was a special occasion meal at the mosque, where we ate it with naan or thickly sliced French bread. When I started cooking it for myself a decade ago, and eventually my family, I began to experiment. I’ve made it with brisket, inspired by the coffee-braised brisket from Michael Solomonov. I’ve treated it like a French dip, the tender meat nestled inside sliced warm French bread, stuffed with cilantro, ginger, and green chiles—the broth served as a sidecar to dunk the sandwich. I’ve made nihari for Easter, Eid, and a number of occasions in between. It’s a simple braise that feeds a crowd and feels incredibly celebratory.
For me, nihari made with a homemade spice blend is the most complex tasting. That said, nihari made with store-bought masala (I turn to the Shan brand my mom always has in her pantry) is spicier and more convenient to assemble. Compared to lamb shanks, beef short ribs are easily found, with a good balance of meat to bone, resulting in a rich broth and one-pot meal that is equally comforting and impressive.
Recipe information
Total Time
4 hours
Yield
8 servings
Ingredients
Nihari Masala
Nihari and Assembly
Preparation
Nihari Masala
Step 1
Toss 10 green cardamom pods, 3 black cardamom pods, 3 black long pepper pods, 10 whole cloves, one 3"-long cinnamon stick, 1 star anise pod, ⅓ cup coriander seeds, ⅓ cup fennel seeds, 2 Tbsp. cumin seeds, 1 Tbsp. black cumin seeds, and 1 tsp. black peppercorns in a small bowl to combine.
Step 2
Heat a dry medium skillet over medium. Toast spice mixture, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 4 Tbsp. Kashmiri chile powder, 2 Tbsp. cayenne pepper, 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 tsp. ground turmeric and toast, stirring constantly, until combined and fragrant, about 10 seconds. Transfer spices back to bowl and let cool.
Step 3
Transfer spices to a spice mill or small blender and pulse to a fine powder.
Do Ahead: Nihari masala can be made 2 months ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
Nihari and Assembly
Step 4
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Blend 2 heads of garlic, cloves separated, peeled, one 2" piece ginger, peeled, and 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a small blender until smooth. Set garlic paste aside. (Alternatively, you can blend in a tall container or measuring glass with an immersion blender.)
Step 5
Season 5 lb. English-style bone-in beef short ribs all over with 2 Tbsp Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Heat 3 Tbsp. ghee or vegetable oil in a large ovenproof Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Working in batches if needed, cook short ribs, meaty side down, until a deeply browned crust forms, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate with tongs, leaving fat in pot.
Step 6
Cook 2 medium onions, thinly sliced, in same pot, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, 10–12 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add reserved garlic paste and cook, stirring often, until paste is beginning to stick to bottom of pot but not burning, about 4 minutes. Add 2 bay leaves and 3 Tbsp. nihari masala; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Step 7
Pour in 6–7 cups water (there is little risk of the pot running dry, and you can adjust the sauce consistency at the end, so no need to be exact here) and bring to a simmer, stirring and scraping up browned bits stuck to bottom of pot. Nestle short ribs back into pot and return liquid to a simmer. Cover pot, transfer to oven, and braise until meat is tender, and liquid is thickened, 2½–3 hours. If the braise seems too soupy for your liking, uncover and simmer until sauce thickens slightly, 20–30 minutes. You can also add a little more water to loosen if needed.
Step 8
Skim as much fat from surface as possible; discard. Ladle nihari among bowls and top with cilantro leaves with tender stems, thinly sliced serrano chile, thinly sliced ginger, and store-bought fried onions. Serve with toasted naan or country-style bread and lime wedges for squeezing over.
Recipe notes
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