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Dining Car Calf Liver

This recipe is taken from an old Canadian National Railway menu. It became an instant Joe Beef classic, which goes to show: people love train food.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    Serves 2

Ingredients

1 long slice calf liver, about 10 ounces (280 g) and 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) thick
6 tablespoons (55 g) unsalted butter
1/2 cup (85 g) diced cooked ham
1 shallot, finely chopped
1/2 cup (40 g) finely chopped white mushrooms
1 tablespoon Cognac
Salt and pepper
1/2 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup (55 g) toasted bread cubes (from 1 slice stale white bread)
1/2 cup (55 g) grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup (10 g) chopped fresh chives
1/2 cup (125 ml) Beef Shank Stock (page 249)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). With a long sharp knife, carefully slice open the piece of liver like a wallet.

    Step 2

    To make the stuffing, grab a sauté pan and melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. It seems like a lot of butter because it is. After 2 minutes, add the ham and the shallot. Sweat it for a minute or two and then add the mushrooms, Cognac, and 1/4 teaspoon salt to draw the water from the mushrooms. Stir in the garlic, parsley, and a pinch of pepper and cook for 3 minutes. Lastly, add the bread and mix everything together. Remove from the heat and let cool.

    Step 3

    Spoon the stuffing carefully into the veal wallet. Unlike a real wallet, you want this one only three-quarters full. Squeeze the top to make sure that the bottom is full. Now sew the top shut with bamboo skewers. It doesn’t have to be perfect; just shut it so the stuffing doesn’t fall out.

    Step 4

    In a small cocotte or other small flameproof casserole, melt 2 tablespoons butter with a pinch each of salt and pepper over medium heat. When the butter is foaming, fit the liver in the pan and place in the oven for 12 minutes.

    Step 5

    Time to make the herb crust: Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, let cool, then mix with the Parmesan, mustard, and chives.

    Step 6

    After 12 minutes, take the liver out but don’t turn off the oven. With a spoon, smear the buttery crust on top of the liver. Add the stock to the pan, return the pan to the oven, and bake for another 5 minutes, or until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part reads 135°F (58°C).

    Step 7

    Take out the skewers, let the liver rest for a minute, then slice and serve.

Cookbook cover of The Art of Living According to Joe Beef: A Cookbook of Sorts by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan, and Meredith Erickson.
Reprinted with permission from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef by Frédéric Morin, David McMillan & Meredith Erickson, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.
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