Traditional duck confit is not only cooked in fat but also preserved for a period of time. A true confit has a unique flavor developed as it ages in duck fat. You can make it the traditional way, buy ready-made confit, or use the cooking method described here, called sous vide (under vacuum).
Recently, I learned how to use this method to make duck confit for use in Cassoulet in the Style of Toulouse, where large succulent chunks of boned meat are set between layers of beans to bake for a second long cooking. Sous vide–prepared confit will survive this extra cooking and remain flavorful and moist. Additionally, this is the easiest and least messy way to prepare this essential cassoulet component.
The duck of choice for sous vide is Moulard with its dense, rich, fleshy, fatty legs. Large lean Muscovy ducks can be substituted, but you’ll need to add 1/2 cup chilled rendered duck fat to each pouch. If Pekin ducks are substituted, you can reduce cooking time by 1 to 2 hours, depending on size.
If you want to serve sous vide duck confit as a main course on the bone with a crispy skin, remove the duck legs from the pouches as directed in Step 4, arrange them skin side up on a rack set over a pan (to catch the melting fat) and brown them in a 400°F oven. Serve with sautéed potatoes or salad.
If you’re using a home vacuum packing system, such as FoodSaver, rather than a professional chefs’ system, it’s best to serve the duck within one week. (More sophisticated machines allow chefs to keep refrigerated confit in pouches in the refrigerator for many months.) If, for whatever reason, a refrigerated pouch begins to puff up, discard it at once. Bagged duck legs prepared with a home vacuum packing system can also be frozen for longer storage.
Don’t be surprised if there is some ballooning during cooking. When the pouches are immersed in ice water they will contract.
Due to its unique design, a thin, metal Simmer Mat is superior to a heat diffuser to control cooking at a low temperature on a stovetop.
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 4 as a main course, or 12 as part of a cassoulet
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Season duck legs with salt and a few thyme leaves. Wrap in paper toweling and refrigerate 24 hours.
Step 2
The following day: Rinse off seasonings, blot very dry, and wrap in pairs in boilable pouches, then use a FoodSaver or professional vacuum packing device to seal airtight. Cover one stovetop burner with a Simmer Mat or heat diffuser. Place the sealed pouches in a deep flameproof ceramic or cast-iron casserole and cover with hot water. Be sure the pouches are completely submerged; if necessary, weight them down. Place the casserole over the mat or heat diffuser set over medium-low heat. Cover the casserole and heat to 180°F (use an instant-read thermometer), then reduce heat to low and allow to simmer at a constant 180°F temperature for at least 8 hours for Moulard, 9 for Muscovy, or 5 to 6 hours for Pekin. (If you have an electric oven, alternatively, you can place the pouches in very hot water in a casserole and cook at 180°F overnight. (Because of the constant water temperature, the flesh won’t cook beyond its stage of “doneness.”)
Step 3
The duck is ready when the flesh feels very tender, begins to separate from the bone, and the joint between leg and thigh cracks easily. When you remove the pouches from the casserole, immediately set the pouches in a bowl of ice water to chill until completely cold, about 30 minutes. The fat should congeal. Refrigerate until ready to use, within one week (see Cooks' Notes below).
Step 4
When ready to serve: Place the pouches under warm running water until you can easily break the chunks of the fat away from the meat. Open each pouch and separate the fat and jelly-like juices from the flesh. Set the fat aside for some other purpose; use juices for sauces or add to the beans. If using for cassoulet, bone the legs and break the meat into large chunks. Brown the skin to a crisp in a skillet; season the flesh side with pepper. Add the meat chunks and skin to the cassoulet
