Ensaymadas

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Combine yeast, 1/2 tsp. sugar, and 3 Tbsp. lukewarm water in the bowl of a stand mixer. Cover bowl and let mixture sit until foamy and active, about 10 minutes.

   Step 2

   Whisk milk, 3 egg yolks, 3/4 cup flour, and 1/4 cup sugar into yeast mixture until smooth. Cover and let sit until very bubbly, 1–1 1/2 hours.

   Step 3

   Add salt, remaining 3 egg yolks, 1/2 cup sugar, and remaining 2 1/4 cup flour to mixture. Fit mixer with dough hook and mix dough on medium-low speed until smooth and elastic, 6–8 minutes (it will be sticky). Add 8 Tbsp. room-temperature butter 1 Tbsp. at a time, mixing until completely incorporated after each addition (about 1 minute each time). Dough should be very easy to stretch. Cover bowl and let dough rise in a warm draft-free place until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

   Step 4

   Preheat oven to 325°F. Coat muffin cups with nonstick spray and line with 4" squares of parchment paper. Punch down dough; divide into 12 pieces. Working with 1 piece and covering the rest, roll out to a 14x3" rectangle. Brush lightly with melted butter and sprinkle with a little cheese (about 2 tsp.). Working at an angle so dough wraps down the length of dowel, roll dough toward you around dowel. Slide dough off dowel (it will scrunch up a bit). Stretch out to 8–10" long and coil around itself to make a snail-shell shape; place in a muffin cup. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until puffy and dough springs back when gently pressed, 25–35 minutes.

   Step 5

   Bake ensaimadas until golden brown and puffed, 20–25 minutes. Brush with remaining melted butter; sprinkle with more Parmesan and remaining 6 tsp. sugar.

2. Do Ahead

   Step 6

   Dough can be made (do not let rise) 12 hours ahead. Cover and chill. Let dough come to room temperature, then let rise until doubled before proceeding, 1–2 hours.