Fried Beans
When Ricardo first came to Mexico City, he ordered beans in a small fonda and the cook asked, "Fritos o refrito?" (Fried or refried?) That was when Ricardo began to understand the various stages of bean cookery. The first stage, frijoles chinos, is a common way of cooking beans in and around Mexico City. The name confusingly refers to the way the bean texture resembles the tightly curled hair of African slaves brought to Mexico in the middle of the sixteenth century.
This same preparation is typically called frijoles fritos by cooks in central Mexico, though it differs somewhat as the beans are served before they have absorbed all of the broth and are still somewhat runny.
You can make fried beans from almost any type of dried bean. The diminutive black bean is commonly used in southern Mexico and red or brown beans are popular in the rest of the country. If you are in a hurry, an equal amount of canned beans may be substituted with additional water added to the can liquid if needed.
These tasty beans are served in homes and in small market fondas almost any time of the day. They partner perfectly with grilled meat and egg dishes, such as Huevos al Albanil. Serve them in a separate small, flat dish or as a side on the main plate. A light sprinkle of fresh cheese will provide a color and taste contrast.
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 6
Ingredients
For the Optional Topping
Preparation
Heat the lard in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and fry, stirring often, until lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and beans and begin to smash the beans with a bean or potato masher until they are pastelike but still have some lumps. Stir in the broth and salt and continue to smash and stir occasionally, for about 5 minutes. When the bean mixture begins to spew and sputter, lower the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bottom of the pan stays clear for a moment when scraped with a spoon, another 5 to 7 minutes. Serve hot, and, if you want, sprinkle on the cheese.
