Among the most mistreated and overused terms in cooking is jerked, which, at least when I had it in the central Jamaican highlands—Cockpit Country, as it’s called—is essentially a beautifully seasoned pork (or, originally, boar) shoulder slow-cooked over coals. (You cannot make a “jerked” pork tenderloin; it will simply dry out.) The distinctive flavors are nutmeg, allspice (which is called pimento in the islands), and habanero peppers. If possible, crack a nutmeg into pieces and toast about half of it in a skillet until fragrant, with about a tablespoon of allspice berries, then grind them together. If not, use dried spices as directed here. If you have a gas grill, this will be easy; but if at all possible, set up an aluminum tray of soaked wood chips over the side with the heat and replenish as necessary. If you use charcoal, use real charcoal instead of briquettes if you can. Serve this with Coconut Rice and Beans (page 516) and, if you dare, Habanero-Garlic Salsa (page 611). Other cuts of meat you can use here: bone-in chicken legs (cooking time will be considerably shorter, about 1 hour); spareribs, though not traditional, are also good.
Recipe information
Yield
makes about 10 servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Combine the first 6 ingredients with some salt and pepper, then moisten with enough lime juice to make a paste. Use a thin-bladed knife to poke holes all over the pork and stick some of the paste in there; rub the pork with that which remains. Wrap loosely in foil and refrigerate overnight or, if you’re in a hurry, proceed.
Step 2
Five or 6 hours before you’re ready to eat, turn the oven to 300°F or prepare a charcoal or gas grill to cook over low indirect heat (ideally with some wood chips as a flavoring source; see the headnote). Open the top of the foil and put the pork in a roasting pan in the oven or directly on the grill rack; if you’re grilling, cover the grill. Cook, checking occasionally and basting with the lime juice, until the pork is brown and very, very tender—4 hours or more. To serve, chop into pieces (the meat will be very tender).
