Feniger first encountered this fragrant pilaf while visiting her friend Alan Wagner, who cooks at an ashram in India. The pilaf has since become a popular addition to Street's menu. The first thing you'll notice is the tapioca pearls gratifyingly chewy, almost slippery texture. Then you'll take in the pop of the mustard seeds, the denseness of the taro, the fresh coolness of the cilantro, and the savor of the peanuts and cumin. The most elusive flavor is that of the dried neem leaves. Theyre an optional ingredient—you can leave them out and the pilaf will still be delicious—but they have an interesting astringency.
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Bring water (10 cups) to a boil in a 3-to 4-quart pot. Add tapioca pearls and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, until pearls are translucent around edge, have a white center, and are al dente, about 45 minutes more.
Step 2
While tapioca stands, cover taro with cold water in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then simmer until almost tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer taro to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, cut into 1/4-inch dice.
Step 3
Drain tapioca in a sieve and rinse well under cold water. Let stand in sieve submerged in a bowl of cold water until ready to use.
Step 4
Heat butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot, then sauté taro until just tender and golden, about 5 minutes. Add chile and garlic and sauté until softened, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and neem leaves (if using) and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds more.
Step 5
Lift sieve with tapioca out of water and shake to drain well. Add to taro mixture in skillet along with peanuts and 1/2 teaspoon salt and sauté 2 minutes. Toss with cilantro and serve immediately.
