Name: Vegetarian Shepherd's Pie
Cook time: 1 hr
Total time: 2 1/2 hr (includes making stock)
Yield: Makes 8 servings
Ingredients: 10 ounces pearl onions (about 2 1/4 cups); 9 tablespoon olive oil, divided; 1 1/2 pounds seitan, sliced 1/4 inch thick and patted dry; 3 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only), halved lengthwise, sliced 1/2 inch thick, and washed; 3 garlic cloves, chopped; 1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered; 3/4 pound carrots (about 4 medium), cut into 3/4-inch-thick pieces; 3/4 pound parsnips (about 4 medium), cut into 3/4-inch-thick pieces; 2 tablespoons thyme leaves; 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary; 1 (750-ml) bottle full-bodied red wine such as Burgundy or Côtes du Rhône; 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened; 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour; 3 1/2 cups hot rich vegetable stock; 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley; 2 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes; 3/4 pound celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces; 1/2 stick unsalted butter; 1/2 cup whole milk; 1/2 cup heavy cream; Equipment: a 3-quart shallow (2-inch-deep) flameproof baking dish; a potato ricer or a food mill fitted with medium disk; a potato ricer or a food mill fitted with medium disk

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Vegetarian Shepherd's PieWilliam Abranowicz

An irresistible vegetarian main course can take a little extra love and time, but food editor Melissa Roberts would be the first person to tell you it's worth it. Fortunately, all the components of this shepherd's pie—from the heady vegetable stew with its red wine gravy to the crown of fluffy mashed potatoes and celery root—can be made ahead. Protein-rich seitan (pronounced "SAY-tan," it's sometimes labeled "wheat gluten") has long been used as a meat substitute by Asian cooks, who know how to coax the most out of its satisfyingly chewy texture. Seitan doesn't have a strong taste of its own, but it soaks up the flavors of whatever it's cooked with.

Cooks notes:

• You can use more potatoes in place of the celery root.
• Stew and potato topping can be made 1 day ahead (reserve an additional cup potato-cooking water) and chilled separately. Reheat potato topping slowly in a microwave or in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water, adding enough cooking water to reach desired consistency. Bring stew to a simmer over low heat before topping with warm potato mixture.

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