Gourmet

While the bavarian and the caramel sauce flirt subtly with the flavor of the fruit, this candied peel is very direct, delivering a straight shot of sweet-tart tangerine flavor.

Tangerine juice plays two roles here: It stops the cooking of the sugar, and its bright perfume brings complexity to the sauce.

Of all the citrus fruits (conveniently in season right now), tangerine has perhaps the most complex qualities. Floral and gently sweet, with an underlying tartness—like three fruits in one. And this lighter-than-air bavarian is wonderfully cool on the tongue, slowly releasing its various aromas as it melts in the mouth.

We'll admit it—we all love a wedge of iceberg with blue-cheese dressing. So there's no need to apologize for serving this beautiful plate of sweet lettuce, slices of good Stilton, and toasted walnuts, along with an excellent vinaigrette that brings out the best in all of them.

Creamed spinach often gets a dash of nutmeg. With the rest of this meal, you'll be happy to have a lighter (meaning creamless), more basic sautéed spinach, but the nutmeg remains, for a sense of something special.

Going beyond the customary side dishes for beef (mushrooms and a gratin), we've combined all the luxurious flavor of wild mushrooms sautéed in cream with good buttered toast for these single-serving puddings, giving every guest a perfect mix of crisp, golden surface and warm, melting interior.

You'll find this tenderloin a wonderful change of pace—since it's not seared before cooking, the tenderness extends all the way through the crust (and it's less work for the cook). A woodsy suggestion of rosemary on the meat's surface is underlined by the lusciously savory, almost jammy tomato confit.

Food editor Paul Grimes credits his cooking-school teacher chef Fernand Chambrette of école de Cuisine La Varenne, in Paris, with teaching him how to waste nothing and how to coax flavor even out of scraps. But this is not just an exercise in virtuosity, since the butter carries every last drop of sweet sea essence rendered from the shells. Keep any extra in your freezer and scoop some out whenever you want to punch up a seafood dish.

When was the last time you had a traditional, everything-from-scratch bisque? The rarity of an execution this loving, along with those succulent lumps of meat, guarantees groans of pleasure at the Christmas table. The intensely crabby finishing touch, with its base akin to drawn butter, will delight veteran crustacean eaters.

Trompe l'oeil as much as hors d'oeuvres, these rolls use carrot where nori would usually be at a sushi bar and boneless beef top loin instead of tuna. The pungent mustard sauce is an artful counterpoint to the sweet carrot.

The zing of fresh lemon enhances both the peas' sweetness and the natural flavor of the spinach. The whole quick, creamy dish is bolstered by soft pillows of potato gnocchi.

You don't need an endless supply of ingredients to create a flavor-packed stir-fry. Here, flank steak and fresh Napa cabbage come together without fuss, thanks to a Chinese sauce that requires little work.

Canned coconut soups are full of distinct Thai flavors such as Kaffir lime leaves and galangal (a gingerlike root). They lend great depth to this surprisingly easy meal.

The broiled disks of polenta in this dish bring to mind an extra-delicious version of johnnycakes, topped with a hearty, savory ragout that's ready before you know it.

The carrots' natural sweetness plays off the tang of the mustard. This effortless dish pairs particularly well with the rosemary pork chop.

Thanks to Simon and Garfunkel, the fresh herbs in this dish are forever linked. But the folk duo probably never knew how good they are on top of al dente bucatini, a thicker-than-spaghetti hollow noodle.

Golden-brown scallops are gorgeous when framed by a bright pea purée. An infusion of curry and lime juice invigorates this dish.

Anchovy paste might seem like a strange addition here, but it's a handy ingredient that can perform amazing feats even when used in tiny amounts.

Café au Lait Pain Perdu Perfumed with sweetened espresso and baked to an eggy, custardy consistency, this take on French toast is one of those magical dishes that work just as well for dessert as they do for breakfast.

This style of frying eggs results in crisp, crackly whites and beautiful, barely set yolks. The spicy garlic oil and smoked mozzarella make this dish an unusual but delicious brunch or light dinner.