Brandy

This is a Hawaiian drink, and green coconuts may not be available in all regions. If not, an Old-fashioned glass will do very nearly as well.

Flips were originally hot drinks made with egg and a variety of liquors and wines. They were warmed up by means of a loggerhead, an iron tool with a long handle and bulbous end that could be heated and plunged, like a poker, into the drink. Today, however, flips are generally served cold. Historically, they have been most often served in the morning or at bedtime, because of their soothing character.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

If you don't have apple brandy, simply substitute apple cider. In addition to the crystallized ginger, the cinnamon sugar sprinkled on the crust adds a lovely essence. To serve this very special pie, I suggest topping each slice with a bit of cheddar cheese.

The rich flavors in this moist cake intensify with a little bit of age. Though the Armagnac toffee sauce and Armagnac ice cream make festive partners, leftover cake is excellent served plain with tea or coffee. To give extra height to the cake, we call for an 11-cup Kugelhopf pan, a taller-than-ordinary bundt pan (available by mail order from Bridge Kitchenware, tel. 800-274-3435 or 212-838-1901). You may also use a regular 11-cup bundt pan for a slightly broader cake.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less, but requires additional unattended time.