Fritter

This is an updated version of the chremslach passed down in my own family. I have never had a seder without it. A heavier version stuffed with cranberries appeared in many early American Jewish cookbooks as Kentucky grimslech.

Even though they are most often associated with the Jewish holiday of Hanukkah, potato pancakes have a year-round appeal. Here they are given a Middle Eastern twist with the addition of flour made from chick-peas - the dominant flavor in falafel - as well as chilis, herbs and spices. Pour a dry white wine. For dessert, present fruit and some halvah. Chick-pea flour is available at Middle Eastern and Indian markets.

For a nice vegetarian meal, offer these latkes with a Greek salad. Stir chopped fresh mint into yogurt to have with the latkes.

We found that using finely stone-ground cornmeal yielded a denser, slightly heavier fritter than regular stone-ground cornmeal. Though both tasted the same, we preferred the texture of the fritter made with regular cornmeal.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 5 1/2 hr In an April 1975 article titled "The Phenomenal Food Processor," Gourmet introduced the Cuisinart to the world. More than 25 years later, no American kitchen seems well equipped without one. Early on, the food processor dazzled us with mousselines and silken brioche dough; pulverized parmesan cheese; shredded, sliced, and puréed vegetables; pulsed pie dough, and spreadable pâtés. It was even easy to clean. Here, the processor transforms a dinner party standard — coquilles St.-Jacques — into crisp little hors d'oeuvre puffs.

The fritter tradition harks back to West Africa, where frying in deep oil is one of the major cooking techniques. In the African Atlantic world, fritters can be served as appetizers, as a vegetable, and even as a dessert, as they are here. My maternal Grandma Jones had a way with fritters. She would prepare them from the overripe bananas that she found at low prices at her local greengrocer's.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Here's an Asian - and very elegant - spin on the classic American crab cakes. A dry Gewürztraminer compliments the flavors of this appetizer very well.

These fritters are called akara in Nigeria and Sierra Leone, and akla or koosé in Ghana. They're eaten as a snack, side dish, or breakfast, served with a hot pepper relish (ata). We think they make a great hors d'oeuvre. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 9 hr (includes soaking time)

Juana Vázquez-Gómez of Redondo Beach, California, writes: "Growing up in Cuernavaca, just outside Mexico City, I remember my grandmother cooking elaborate Mexican meals every day. My mother continued that tradition, but not in such an all-consuming manner. For her it was a great joy to plan a menu and then invite people to help with the preparation. "The women in my life taught me the beauty of a good meal. I still use many of their recipes today, but unlike my grandmother I don't spend an entire day in the kitchen. Fortunately, my husband and kids like to cook, so I've found a balance between my grandmother's time-intensive recipes and my mother's practicality. " Juana serves these fritters for dessert, but they make a great breakfast dish, too.

Called sfingi and alternately sfina and zeppole, these classic southern Italian fritters are made from pasta bignè, or cream puff dough. Since there is no sugar in the dough, rolling the fritters in cinnamon sugar gives them the right touch of sweetness.

Also called bimuelos, these are a typical Sephardic Hanukkah dessert. The oil in which they are deep-fried commemorates the time during the second century B. C. when a vial of oil, enough for only one day, is said to have burned in the Temple for eight days after the Jews' victory over their Syrian oppressors.

These are called arancini (little oranges).

"I'm hoping to get the recipe for a terrific appetizer I tried at Hamiltons' at First & Main in Charlottesville, Virginia," says Sue Carter of Murieta, California. "The seafood fritters came with lettuce leaves (to wrap around the fritters) and a spicy sauce."