Noodle

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Editors' note: The original recipe calls for Chinese wheat noodles, but we also like this soup made with somen (Japanese thin wheat noodles) or soba (Japanese buckwheat noodles).

This Vietnamese classic is usually made with top or bottom round beef, which is sliced and then marinated and grilled. We've adapted the recipe to use skirt or flank steak and made it easier by grilling the meat before slicing it.

(Stir-Fried Rice Noodles)

To form the noodle cakes, measure them out by taking a few strands of noodles and loosely squiggling them into a tablespoon. Once you get the hang of the amount needed, you can pretty much eyeball it.

The hearty sauce is also great over couscous.

A salad of baby greens and raspberry vinaigrette and some pencil-thin breadsticks go well with the pasta. End the dinner with orange sherbet, Swedish butter cookies and, perhaps, a shot of aquavit.

In Chinese culture, noodles symbolize longevity and are often served at New Year celebrations and traditionally left very long.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

In its traditional form, this classic Lao soup is made with noodles rolled out and cut to order for each bowl. It is still excellent made with dried rice noodles. You can substitute fish, chicken, or pork for the beef, but rice noodles are an essential ingredient. The Lao like a considerable amount of lime juice in their food—here a range is given so that you can flavor the soup to your taste.

Pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup, is traditionally made with long-cooked beef stock. Our quick version calls for deli sliced beef and canned beef broth instead.<

Lukshen Kugel Mildred Grosberg Bellin's recipe for kugel has nothing modern about it, calling for noodles (not "pasta") and plenty of cottage cheese, butter, and sour cream. It was a treat in the test kitchens every time we tried it, and there's no need to wait until Rosh Hashanah to enjoy it. We particularly like it as a side dish to another humble favorite: pot roast.

(Tony Tan's Laksa Lemak)