Herbs & Spices

To produce the delightful hard surface that crackles when tapped with a spoon, you will need to brown the sugared tops with a small kitchen blowtorch, available at most specialty stores.

If you prefer to omit the bourbon, simply double the amount of hot water.

Because there is no butter in the sponge cake, it will remain soft when frozen in the Lemon Semifreddo Cake.

In Italian gelato shops, stracciatella describes an ice cream that has chocolate mixed into it—as our recipe does.

The steeping liquid needs to chill for at least 4 hours, so plan accordingly.

Bosc pears must be very ripe; Anjou, which are juicier, can be slightly firm. Avoid enamel baking dishes, as they cause the syrup to burn.

For the creamiest results, allow the mascarpone to stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.

When put directly on the grill, potatoes will burn before they are cooked through. Parboiling potatoes and wrapping them in a foil packet with seasonings allows for perfectly grilled potatoes with lots of golden, flavorful bits. See page 619 for more spice-mix suggestions.