Herbs & Spices

For crisp browned potatoes, avoid crowding the pan when sauteéing.

Use small red or white potatoes if fingerling potatoes are unavailable.

If making this in advance, wait to add the cucumber until just before serving.

Romesco sauce, from the Catalonian region of Spain, is traditionally served with shellfish. We serve our version with roasted potatoes. It’s even better the next day, when the flavors have had a chance to blend: Refrigerate it overnight in a covered container, and bring to room temperature before serving.

Chihuahua, Cotija, and Mexican crema give the dish authentic flavor, but Monterey Jack, French feta, and sour cream are good substitutes.

To keep mashed potatoes warm for up to 2 hours, place them in a heatproof bowl over a pot filled with 3 inches of barely simmering water; cover to seal in the steam.

Halving the yams before roasting greatly reduces the cooking time and allows them to develop a nice golden crust.

Because the potatoes are cooked and served whole, be sure to select those that are similar in size to ensure they cook evenly.

A Japanese or French mandoline is great for slicing vegetables uniformly—anywhere from very thin to thick—and takes much less time than slicing by hand with a knife.

You can make the polenta through step 1 ahead of time; let cool, then cover and refrigerate.

You can make the dressing through step 2 a day ahead; refrigerate in an airtight container. Just before serving, stir in oranges, pine nuts, and parsley.

This recipe can be made a day ahead and refrigerated; reheat before serving.