Double Pepper Diavolo With Shrimp

It’s hard to pinpoint exactly why Italian American red sauce restaurants are almost universally comforting. Maybe it’s the checkered tablecloths and the heaving platters of food. Or, perhaps, the reassuring familiarity of the menu. From penne alla vodka to spaghetti and meatballs, it’s like seeing old friends. Fra diavolo is a stalwart among the classics, adorned with pink claws of lobster or shrimp or a jumble of mixed seafood. Fans will appreciate it for the lick of heat from crushed red pepper flakes, a high point in an otherwise simple tomato sauce. Here, however, the usual canned tomatoes are replaced with jarred roasted red peppers, a subtle but effective change that imparts a smokier, sweeter allure to the dish that plays off the sweetness of the shrimp. Speaking of which, frozen shrimp is infinitely easier to deal with and often fresher than “fresh” shrimp from the store (which is almost always previously frozen anyway). Look for smaller shrimp so every mouthful of pasta contains a bite.