Name: Cantabrian Meat Stew with Chickpeas (Cocido Lebaniego)
Cook time: 2 hours
Total time: 12 hours
Yield: Makes 8 servings
Ingredients: 1 pound dried chickpeas (2 1/3 cups); 1 (1-pound) smoked ham hock; 1 (1/2-pound) piece slab bacon; 1 (1/2-pound) piece salt pork; 1 (2-inch-thick) cross-cut veal shank (ossobuco; 1/2 pound); 1 (1/4-pound) piece cured dried beef such as Italian bresaola; 1 (4- to 6-ounce) pig's ear, slice of pig's snout, or piece of pig's foot (optional); 5 (4-ounce) Spanish chorizo links (cured spiced pork sausage); 1/2 tablespoon Spanish smoked sweet paprika; 10 to 11 cups water; 1/4 pound fideos (dried coiled vermicelli noodles; needed only if serving broth as a first-course soup); 2 pounds Savoy or green cabbage, cored and cut into 1-inch pieces; 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped; 1/2 tablespoon Spanish smoked sweet paprika; 1/4 cup olive oil; 5 large eggs; 1/4 teaspoon salt; 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley; 2 1/2 cups fine bread crumbs from a day-old country round or baguette (1/2 pound); 1/4 cup olive oil

The hearty pork stew known as cocido is eaten all over Spain but varies from region to region. This one comes from Liébana, the westernmost part of Cantabria, where it's traditionally served in stages—beginning with the broth and fideos (fine pasta) and followed by the meat, chickpeas, and cabbage arranged on a large platter. We prefer to eat it all together, as the broth lends a nice moistness to the other elements.

Cooks' notes:

•The pig's ear, snout, or foot, available at butcher shops specializing in pork products, adds gelatin to the stew, enriching the broth, but may be omitted.
•Meats and chickpeas (but not dumplings) can be simmered 1 day ahead. Cool meats and chickpeas completely in broth, uncovered, then chill, covered once cold. Remove fat before reheating and proceeding with recipe.
•Cabbage can be boiled (but not sautéed) 1 day ahead. Cool completely, uncovered, then chill, covered.
•Dumplings can be formed (but not browned) 1 day ahead. Chill, covered.

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