Lobster Lovage Stew

Preparation

1. Step 1

   In a 10- to 12-quart kettle bring 8 quarts water and 1 1/2 cups wine to a boil. Plunge lobsters into liquid headfirst and return liquid to a boil. Simmer lobsters, covered, 12 minutes. Have ready a bowl of ice and cold water. With tongs plunge lobsters immediately into bowl of ice water to stop cooking and reserve cooking liquid.

   Step 2

   Working over a bowl to catch juices, twist off tails and claws and reserve juices. Discard head sacs. Reserve tomalley and any roe if desired and remove meat from tails and claws, reserving shells. Cut meat into bite-size pieces and chill, covered, in a bowl.

   Step 3

   Chop 2 carrots and add to reserved cooking liquid with reserved lobster juices, reserved tomalley and roe if using, reserved shells, onions, 1/2 cup lovage or celery leaves, bay leaves, thyme, parsley, and peppercorns. Simmer stock gently, uncovered, skimming froth occasionally, 1 1/4 hours.

   Step 4

   Pour stock through a large sieve into a large bowl and transfer to cleaned kettle. Boil stock until reduced to about 7 cups and return to bowl.

   Step 5

   Finely chop remaining 2 carrots and in a 5- to 6-quart kettle cook with shallot in butter over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp-tender. Sprinkle flour over mixture and cook, stirring, 3 minutes, but do not brown vegetables. Add remaining 1/2 cup wine and boil, stirring, until most of wine is evaporated. Add tomatoes and stock and simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Stir in cream and salt and pepper to taste and cook stew, stirring occasionally, until heated through. Stew and lobster meat may be prepared 2 days ahead and chilled, covered. Reheat stew before proceeding.

   Step 6

   Finely chop remaining 1/2 cup lovage or celery leaves and stir into stew with lobster meat. Cook stew, stirring, until just heated through.