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Dashi

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Stock pot filled with dried mushrooms seaweed and more.
Photo by Kristin Teig, Food Styling by Kay Chun

Dashi is a generic name for stock in Japanese; it is also a common term in Korea. There are as many different kinds of dashi as there are stocks. This dashi recipe has earthiness (from shiitakes), depth (from dashima), and sea flavors (from both the dashima and dried anchovies). It’s a very versatile version. It complements almost every Korean dish I can think of and enhances the flavors of both meats and seafood.  

  

We make dashi every day in both of my restaurant kitchens, and I do the same at home. The best (and fastest) way to make dashi is to combine all the ingredients in a large covered pot and let soak overnight at room temperature, then cook the broth the next morning. It takes 90 minutes or less of simmering time to get the flavor you want this way. If you do not soak it overnight, it can take more than 2 hours to cook. Some Koreans like to keep a container of water with dashi ingredients soaking in the fridge at all times. They replace the ingredients several times a week, adding more water as well whenever some of the dashi is used for cooking. This method doesn’t provide the deepest or freshest flavor, but it means you always have dashi on hand, and it is still preferable to using plain water.  

  

Dashi has a very subtle flavor of the sea that makes everything you cook with it taste better. It is full of natural glutamates. While these are flavorless on their own, they amplify the flavors of all the other ingredients, enhancing them without masking their true nature. Instead of experiencing flavors that drop off immediately after hitting your tongue, the glutamates allow them to linger on your palate, even after you have swallowed that mouthful, creating a lasting finish.

Ingredients

1 gallon cold water
1 (6-inch) square dashima (kombu)
3 medium dried shiitake mushrooms
12 large dried anchovies (gutted and heads removed)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Put the water, dashima, shiitake mushrooms, and anchovies in a covered stockpot or other large pot and let stand at room temperature overnight, or for 8 to 12 hours.

    Step 2

    Remove the lid, set the pot over high heat, and heat until the surface of the water begins to ripple; pay attention, and do not let it come to a boil. Lower the heat to maintain a very gentle simmer (the ideal temperature is a few degrees below a light boil) and simmer for 80 to 90 minutes. Taste the dashi every 20 minutes to monitor the changes in flavor and texture. You will notice the texture becoming softer. I describe it as having a slippery, slightly viscous texture compared to tap water. The sea flavor will become stronger, and the dashi will become darker, like pale Earl Grey tea. The sweetness will take a while to appear, but when it does, the dashi is almost ready. When you can taste the sweetness and deep sea flavors, and the dashi has a very soft texture, it is done. Be vigilant, because dashi will become bitter if cooked too long.

    Step 3

    Strain the dashi into a covered container and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. After 24 hours, the dashi will begin to lose some of its flavor and it will turn slightly flat.

  2. Cooks' Notes

    Step 4

    It’s best to use dashi the same day you make it, though if you keep it refrigerated, you can use it for another day or two. By the third day, it will no longer taste fresh.

    Step 5

    Vegetarians can make a dashi from just dashima and dried shiitakes.

Cookbook cover featuring a halved head of Korea cabbage.
Reprinted with permission from My Korea: Traditional Flavors, Modern Recipes by Hooni Kim, copyright © 2020. Published by W. W. Norton & Company. Buy the full book from Amazon.
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