Dairy Free

Using canned beans instead of dried greatly reduces the cooking time for this New England specialty, but you can use dried beans instead (see page 365 for soaking instructions).

Take care not to crowd the vegetables, or they will steam rather than brown. You’ll also need to toss them periodically so they’ll stay coated in oil. Add leftover vegetables to a salad, or use them to top the Roasted Root-Vegetable Pizza (page 45).

For a meatless variation, replace the prosciutto with a half cup of grated parmesan and the scallions with a cup of chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as mint, parsley, and tarragon.

Seltzer water is the secret to achieving a delicate crust on homemade onion rings. Use a deep-fry thermometer to monitor the oil, and be sure to maintain a temperature of 375 degrees; otherwise, the rings will absorb too much oil as they cook.

New potatoes are really just young potatoes of any variety. They are crisp, waxy, and hold their shape when boiled or roasted, as in the recipes that follow. Try any of these rustic potato dishes with roast chicken, pork, or beef (see page 284).

New potatoes are really just young potatoes of any variety. They are crisp, waxy, and hold their shape when boiled or roasted, as in the recipes that follow. Try any of these rustic potato dishes with roast chicken, pork, or beef (see page 284).

To keep these pancakes from browning too much, cook them over medium (not high) heat, and lower the temperature if they start to darken too quickly. Sour cream is a classic accompaniment to grated-potato pancakes of all sorts (including latkes).