Sauce

At Mesa Grill, this barbecue sauce is used as is, or as a base for some more complex sauces. The ancho and pasilla chile powders add Southwestern flavors to the traditional barbecue-sauce ingredients: tomatoes, onions, garlic, sweet molasses, and brown sugar.

Navarre adds hard-boiled eggs to his version of this classic green French sauce, good on anything from fish and cold meats to grilled foods.

This subtly spicy mayo is great on fish and sandwiches—and on fries, too.

Lots of Tex-Mex restaurants use bottled mole pastes from Mexico such as Doña Maria brand. Tricks of the trade include reconstituting the paste with chicken broth instead of water and boosting the flavor with peanut butter. Here's a simple homemade mole that tastes even better than the bottled paste.

This sauce is the American version of crème anglaise, a vanilla custard sauce. Our recipe makes a basic vanilla sauce that goes well with every dessert. To enhance the sauce, you can add liquor (Calvados or pear brandy comes to mind). This sauce does not require heavy cream to taste sinful. Here, we use a milk base to create a simple, decadent sauce.

For chicken and turkey cutlets, boneless pork chops and tenderloin, steaks, and burgers. You can't offer a series of pan sauces without a mushroom one. I have chosen shiitakes, since they sauté more quickly than other mushrooms. Rather than using cream or butter, enrich this sauce with fresh goat cheese.

Shot through with tarragon, parsley, and scallions, this tangy sauce pairs beautifully with rich southern-fried sweetbreads . If you have any left over, use it as a salad dressing or as a dip for crudités.

This recipes accompanies the Ricotta Cheesecake .

If you don't have time to drain regular yogurt, buy thick, Greek-style yogurt, available at many supermarkets and at specialty foods stores.

Editor's note: Serve this sauce with Lourdes Castro's Chicken Tamales
This is an incredibly versatile sauce that you will refer to as your "special sauce." It is creamy, smoky, and a bit spicy, and goes just as well with chicken and seafood as it does with meat and pork. But don't limit yourself to its conventional uses. Spread it on sandwiches or use it as a dip for vegetables.

This is the one sauce you must make. It's a classic and very easy to prepare, but be sure you use only a superior quality Greek yogurt or labne spread. I cannot emphasize this strongly enough—it makes all the difference.

Editor's note: Serve this sauce with Lourdes Castro's Chicken Tamales
A staple on Mexican tables, do not confuse Mexican crema for sour cream. The flavor is more sour, and it's a bit saltier as well. In addition to providing flavor and texture to a dish, the cream also serves as a neutralizer for the heat of chiles. It is a good option to have around for those who don't like hot foods.