Skip to main content

Seafood Chowder with Squash

4.2

(5)

Image may contain Bowl Dish Food Meal Soup Bowl Soup Stew Animal Seafood Sea Life and Lobster
Photo by Maura McEvoy

In every good restaurant kitchen, there's a combination of thrift and innovation. We always have a dish like this chowder on the menu because when we portion fish for main courses, there are inevitably some pieces of our excellent, sushi-quality fish too small to serve on their own. And that is another great reason to buy your fish whole: not only can you save the bones and head for fish stock, but you'll be generating two meals from one shopping trip.

We call it chowder to give the idea of a hearty, chunky fish soup (sea bass, shrimp, mussels) with a lot of texture from vegetables. Our version shows off kabocha squash and ají dulce peppers. These are specific varieties of squash and pepper that I search for at the Greenmarket for their deep flavor and beautiful aroma. If you can't find these, use another variety of squash and mild pepper.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    Serves 6

Ingredients

Chowder Base

1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 small white onion, minced
1/2 leek (white and pale green parts), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon peeled and minced ginger
2 cups peeled, seeded, and cubed winter squash, such as kabocha
1 carrot, sliced
1/2 teaspoon mild curry powder
Salt
1 lemongrass stalk, bruised with the side of a chef's knife and halved
1 bay leaf
3/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk
3 1/2 cups Vegetable Broth or water

Mussels

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup white wine
1 pound mussels, cleaned
1 cup diced winter squash, such as kabocha
1 cup diced potatoes
8 baby turnips, peeled and quartered
8 baby radishes, halved
1/2 pound medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and halved
1/2 pound skinless black sea bass fillet, cut into small chunks
1 ají dulce or other small red pepper, cored, seeded, halved crosswise, and julienned
Salt and pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons minced red onion
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
Aleppo pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Make the chowder base. In a medium pot, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the leek, shallot, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until the leek is softened, about 6 minutes. Add the squash, carrot, and curry powder, season with salt, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes.

    Step 2

    Raise the heat to medium-high, add the lemongrass, bay leaf, coconut milk, and broth, and bring to a simmer. Cook the chowder base until the squash and carrots are very tender, about 30 minutes.

    Step 3

    Meanwhile, make the mussels. In a medium pot, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 minutes. Increase the heat to high, add the wine, and bring to a boil. Add the mussels, cover the pot, and steam them until they just open wide, 3 to 4 minutes.

    Step 4

    Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mussels to a medium bowl. Remove the mussels from the shells; discard the shells and any mussels that haven't opened. Strain the broth into a small bowl.

    Step 5

    Once the squash is tender, discard the lemongrass and bay leaf. Process the chowder base in a blender until very smooth and creamy, then pass through a fine-mesh strainer into a large pot.

    Step 6

    Bring the chowder base to a simmer, then add the raw diced squash, potatoes, and turnips and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the radishes, shrimp, and sea bass and simmer for about 3 minutes. Stir in the mussels and red pepper. The soup's consistency should be thinner than traditional chowder—add a splash of the reserved mussel liquid, if needed. Season with a touch of salt and pepper. Serve the chowder in bowls, topped with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, the red onion, chives, and Aleppo pepper.

Excerpted from The Gramercy Tavern Cookbook by Michael Anthony with a History by Danny Meyer. Copyright © 2013 by Gramercy Tavern Corp.; photographs copyright © 2013 by Maura McEvoy. Excerpted by permission of Clarkson Potter, a division of Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. MICHAEL ANTHONY is the executive chef-partner of Gramercy Tavern. In 2012, he recieved the James Beard Award for Best Chef: NYC. Originally from Cincinnati, Ohio, Michael recieved degrees from Indiana University and Paris's celebrated Ferrandi culinary school. He has cooked in Japan and in some of the finest French restaurants, including Jacques Cagna, Michel Geérard, L'Arpège, L'Astrance, and, in New York, Daniel. Prior to joining Gramercy Tavern in 2006, he was the executive chef of Blue Hill at Stone Barns. DANNY MEYER is chief executive officer and founder of Union Square Hospitality Group, which includes Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern, Blue Smoke, Shake Shack, Union Square Events, The Modern, Maialino, Untitled, and North End Grill. He has long served on the boards of Share Our Strength and City Harvest and is on the executive committees of NYC & Company, Union Square Partnership, and the Madison Square Park Conservancy. He is the author of the New York Times bestseller Setting the Table
Read More
The mussels here add their beautiful, briny juices into the curry, which turn this into a stunning and spectacular dish.
Spaghetti is a common variation in modern Thai cooking. It’s so easy to work with and absorbs the garlicky, spicy notes of pad kee mao well.
Kewpie Mayonnaise is the ultimate secret ingredient to creating a perfect oven-baked battered-and-fried crunch without a deep fryer.
The clams’ natural briny sweetness serves as a surprising foil for the tender fritter batter—just be sure to pull off the tough outer coating of the siphon.
This sauce is slightly magical. The texture cloaks pasta much like a traditional meat sauce does, and the flavors are deep and rich, but it’s actually vegan!
Traditionally, this Mexican staple is simmered for hours in an olla, or clay pot. You can achieve a similar result by using canned beans and instant ramen.
This is one of the best fried chickens ever. From southern Thailand, gai hat yai is known for its crispy skin, great aromatics, and super juicy meat.
Fufu is a dish that has been passed down through many generations and is seen as a symbol of Ghanaian identity and heritage. Making fufu traditionally is a very laborious task; this recipe mimics some of that hard work but with a few home-cook hacks that make for a far easier time.